
Sometimes it seems there isn’t a centimeter in Paris that
hasn’t been discovered, described, and recommended. Yet even
frequent visitors who know the city well can often get the feeling
that the “real” city somehow remains elusive.
In the pages of Quiet Corners of Paris, first published
in France, the author has found more than eighty settings that
provide a rare entrée into Paris at her most subtle and
delicate. Most wouldn’t be considered “destinations”,
and certainly not tourist attractions. There are winding lanes
that lead nowhere in particular, but that are exquisitely lovely
in themselves (one called allée des Brouillards, “fog
alley”); rue Georges-Perec, one of the city’s smallest
streets, is a mere staircase without a single numbered address.
There’s a square in the fifteenth arrondissement where
pétanque players gather in a “sublimely relaxing
provincial atmosphere with an almost Mediterranean feel…right
down to the sweet scent of pastis.”
Not all of the places that Jean-Christophe Napias recommends
are obscure, but many have been overlooked despite being in the
best-known neighborhoods of Paris. In the sixth arrondissement,
for example, he has found a string of small courtyards that he
predicts will soon be locked to non-residents and should be seen
right away, if only to glimpse what may be the only antique pas-de-mule (a
three-footed metal stool used to step into a carriage) left in
Paris. There’s also a well with a pulley and gargoyle-sculpted
rim from the fourteenth century, and, in a connecting courtyard,
the base of a tower from the medieval city walls of Emperor Philippe
Auguste.
The author often sprinkles his atmospheric descriptions with
literary quotations or historical anecdotes.
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